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Saturday, 8 March 2014

Yellowstone National Park - NORRIS BASIN

Day 1:

From Madison Junction to Mammoth Hotsprings: traveling Norris Basin

There are several geyser basins in the park and the hottest one  is called Norris Basin. It is a part of part of the Norris - Mammoth corridor

Norris to Mammoth Hot Springs might be the hottest part of the entire Yellowstone Park.

I am not pretending to have known that before. But after we returned home, I wanted to know more about everything that popped out from my SD card. It may be a bit scrambled but somehow I believe that I am close.



There are 3 good reasons for Norris Basin to be the hottest in the park:

1) The stretch between Norris and Mammoth Hotsprings is actually underlined by a fault running all the way up to from Norris to Gardiner, Montana. (Aren't you glad that I made such a beautiful map?)

2) There is a second fault running from Hebgen Lake by the city of West Yellowstone to Norris where it intersects with the first one.

And THAT is not all:

3) The edges of the Yellowstone caldera are marked by a ring-like crack in the earth's crust . 
At Norris the faults 1 and 2 cross and together they also intersect with the ring!

What a story!  No wonder that Norris Basin is the hottest one in Yellowstone.

Norris basin has a number of areas that would have been worthwhile some exploration. As I learned much later it is divided into 3 smaller basins: Porcelain Basin,  Black Basin, and One Hundred Springs Plain.
It is also a home to the tallest geyser in the world - the Steamboat Geyser, 

Traveling to Mammoth Hotsprings on our pre-defined loop, we only got a tiny taste of Norris Basin. definitely an area that deserves closer look, more time and good hiking boots. And a good, healthy back would also help.

Yesterday I took a virtual tour on the following website:
http://www.nps.gov/yell/photosmultimedia/norris-geyser-basin-tour.htm. 


This is only the first area in the basin - it gave us a taste of what's underneath.
Water here is more than boiling HOT when it reaches the surface! Someone measured its temperature and it was 95!
A 95? Water boils at 100, no? And this is supposed to be above the boiling point? Yup.

Being in Yellowstone, on a high plateau of  2300 m instead of 0, the water water boils at 93 degrees C.
(And all I can think of right now is: And that is how the cookie crumbles!)

Ahhhh, why did I not pay attention in my Physics classes?)



Water here is not only HOT it is also ACIDIC. The water mist be mixing with gases that escaped from magma below - being a bit more interested in chemistry, something tells me that water + gas = acid.
Not every basin in Yellowstone is like that.

Acidic conditions are not much suitable to higher life.
Only some plants enjoy the warm edges of these pools. Yellow monkey flowers are some of them.




Hot and acidic water suits does not suit you or I but a host of microorganisms can live in such conditions: 
The thermophiles. 
"Thermo" meaning heat and "phile" meaning "liking". Okay I did not want to say "loving" but that what it is.

There are different kinds of thermophiles out there - some are wimps living at only 45 degrees Celsius, some are more macho, going for 70 or 80 degrees and so on. The greatest machistas are called extremophiles - the extreme-conditions-loving creatures. They can thrive where the rest of the living world could not..


Norris basin is full of those macho microorganisms - and when they set to work they totally change the chemistry and visual appearance of their niches.



They are the little guys that drive crazy two groups of people:
a) the scientists
b the photographers and artsy people in general

All those colourful designs around and within the thermal features can drive any visually inclined person nuts.








.





The overflow channels of geysers and hot springs are often brightly colored with minerals and microscopic life forms.  Lime-green cyanidium algae, Cyanidium caldarium  and orange cyanobacteria  found in the runoff streams look like rusty, iron-rich mineral deposits.



Friday, 7 March 2014

Yellowstone National Park - MADISON RIVER VALLEY



Day 1:

It is a clear early summer morning and the river is shimmering under the cloudless sky. The fresh growth of new vegetation is still more yellow than green but things are happening fast at the high elevations of Yellowstone.


Madison River

The Madison River is formed at the junction of the Gibbon and Firehole rivers, hence Madison Junction. The Madison joins the Jefferson and the Gallatin rivers at Three Forks, Montana, to form the Missouri River. The Madison is a blue-ribbon fly fishing stream with healthy stocks of brown and rainbow trout and mountain whitefish.
 http://www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/nmadison.htm


The river is famous for its  fly fishing and the signs confirm that. This used to be a Westslope Cutthroat Trout (Oncorhynchus clarki lewisi.) domain but in 1930`s someone decided to introduce other trout species  (such as rainbow, brook and brown and things started to change.  The cutthoats had to compete for food and survival with species perhaps more aggressive in an environment of cold, pristine waters that do not produce much food. It is now a species of concern.



A curious ground squirrel came out of hibernation not too long ago and now it is upgrading its residence. Spring cleaning and reno .... no time to fool about.


Apparently this is Uinta Ground Squirrel, Urocitellus armatus or according to other sources Spermophillus armatus (just in case that you want to translate this into another language). Though busy in summer, it spends most of its life snoring in an undergound burrow, which is exactly the same what we are inclined to do in winter months. So, here in Yellowstone, it has only 3-4 months of fooling above the ground. That includes the above mentioned renos, finding a mate and producing a litter of half a dozen offspring. And that does not include all the dodging and fooling the enemies - from birds to mammals who also need to feed their young. No wonder they sleep so long!




It is about 8:30 am when one of us exclaims: Bison!!!!!!!

There is a small bison herd near the woods by the bend of Madison River; it is far away from the road. Nevertheless we jump out of the vehicle, tripods, lenses and all and try.


It si a mixed herd of cows, new babies and young bulls. Their coats are shaggy, the patches of winter fur still hanging loosely on a shiny dark-brown summer coat that is starting to show underneath. The babies must have been born only recently, for about 3 weeks ago there was still snow here in Yellowstone.
One baby per mother, born roughly at the time of the year when the grasses sprout from the thawing ground. Like all the ungulates they walk and run -soon after their birth. And like all the young, they run and jump and enjoy just being alive. Such a pleasure to watch.


We are also noticing a couple of bulls making advances at the cows. Has the mating season begun?
The bison mating season starts in lat June and can last until August or even September.
It is only June 8th but who are we to tell? It never hurts to try.



A bull curls up his upper lip, exposing a chemical testing tissue underneath it. If the cow is in heat he will detect the smell of hormones in her urine. He will seclude her from the rest and guard - in case a rival has the same idea, there will be a bison ritual show off and possibly a fight.



The herd has taken off, disappearing in the woods, leaving us at the edge of the highway still admiring Nature at its morning splendor. There is an amazing basalt rock to ponder; it had been lifted from the underworld a very long time ago. Being so hard it keeps on resisting the grinding forces of erosion ....the sparkling river ....

...... a mighty yell disrupts our contemplation:

Run!!!!!!


Into the car!!!!

The bison are coming!!!

Nel, already stationed behind the wheel could see what Judy and I could not. The rising dust and the herd taking over the highway and advancing FAST.
Tripods are cumbersome and always in the way - they take up time to dismantle, their only advantage being ....well, you know ... sharpness and all that.

With major effort we managed in a nick of time; the last bang of the door is still echoing in our ears when the herd is upon us! Like the creatures of Jurassic Park, only inches away,  they are streaming by our rolled-up windowsl
The initial fear is giving to curiosity (the fact that they are deviating from the road onto the meadows helping a great deal). From the slivers of the car window openings the shutters are starting to purr.

They are gone as fast as they appeared - the prehistoric creatures that have been around for more than 50 million years, very much unchanged for all that time. Fifty million years! And millions of them roaming the northern plains until, within a span of less than a century, we nearly wiped them out.
Endangered. How powerful we are! And short-sighted too.


Three subspecies of Bison, or whatever's left of them, roam the planet today: 

European bison (Bison bonasus) - larger and even more endangered than its American cousins. It lives only in a sanctuary in Bialowieza Forest, (the World Heritage site ) near the city of Bialystok in north-eastern plains of Poland. It is best known from the labels of  "Zubrowka", a famous Polish distillate savored by connoisseurs throughout the world.  There is a stem of sweet bison-grass in each bottle, giving the product its distinct taste.
"Zubr" is an eastern-European name for this animal. Just click on the name  if you want to see the European Bison as well. 
Interesting how we wipe powerful species out of the face of Earth and then label every product or service with their names.
(1 European bison sub-species already extinct.)

American bison, Bison bison,  with 2 representative sub-species: Plains Bison, Bison bison bison  and a larger Wood Bison,  Bison bison athabascae .
And though in Yellowstone Park it looks as if there were plentiful, there are nearly no wild bison living free and outside the protected areas today. 
(3 American bison sub-species already extinct.)

Oh yes ... that a bison or a buffalo question: is it a "bison or a "buffalo"?

Since  "buffalo" live either  in Africn or Asia and are of different species, makeup and habits, calling a bison by the name "buffalo" is incorrect.  Something like calling a human an orangutang.
But try to type "buffalo" into your search and half of the North America will respond.
So there.




In any case - we caught up with "our" bison a few kilometers later. Looking for greener pastures they are just about to cross the river, adults first, mothers with babies next, please.


The youngsters seem to be afraid of the fast moving river. but their Mothers and Aunts keep nudging and assuring until everyone gets safely across.



 Elements conquered there are only two things for the young to do:       jump for joy and eat!




Baby bison do not have a hump until they are about 2 months old. Why should they? They do not eat grass like the adults - not just yet.





There is nothing like a good scrub after a swim. That, and a taste of clay to get rid of the parasites.


Done with their Spa the herd continues on, leaving the rest of us, the representatives of the world,  behind.

Us and a lone fisherman who can finally continue his quest for a trout of Madison River.


Yellowstone National Park - OUR BASE

Wow! What a title!
Actually, at first I wanted to talk about the bison. But Lodgepole Pine somehow grabbed my attention too .... so bison will have to wait.

How about "Of West Yellowstone and Lodgepole Pine?' That should do.


Not being winter-brave we chose to visit the Yellowstone National Park at the beginning of June - late enough for the snow to be gone and early enough to beat the after-school crowds of July and August.
June 6 - 10 proved to be a good choice for us.
Planning to spend three days in the park (definitely NOT enough) we chose West Yellowstone as our base. We wanted to travel it in 3 loops, returning back to West Yellowstone for the nights.
NOT enough, NOT enough, NOT enough! But better than nothing.

Accommodation-wise, the town offers many possibilities, we chose the Moose Creek Cabins - mainly because the three of us (dividing and sharing the cost) believed that a log cabin would provide a nice touch to our trip.
"Creek" was just the part of a name but we were gone all day anyway and being in town meant restaurants, groceries and a gas station nearby.

Our home in West Yellowstone.

Each cabin has its own flag.

And there was even an IMAX theatre (an acronym for Image MAXimum - wow did you know that? And a Canadian too.)
....ok, IMAX theatre in town and, after day 2, it became an amazing addition to our overall experience. 
The film about Yellowstone N.P took us soaring above the gorges and rafting the rivers of Yellowstone, making us feel that we were the great explorers and allowing us to experience the park from yet another angle. Well worth the time and money ($10 / ticket)

Our visit to Yellowstone N.P. was just a brief touch - having only 3 days is truly nothing for those who wish to experience more than just a few short stops at the famous spots or a glimpse from the window of a vehicle. A 3-day trip in the Yellowstone is an appetizer - those who visited will most likely want to return again.

Nel had been here several times and Judy and I happily accepted her design of the travel.



Day1:  Madison River Valley, Norris JTC, Mammoth Hot Springs, The Grand Canyon of Yellowstone and back.
One could spend a week doing just this loop.



A twenty minute drive from West Yellowstone took us to the west gates of the park. 
The park fee is very reasonable - a  $25 for a vehicle for a week. And that includes Grand Tetons as well! 
The year was 2013 - for those who might happen to read this entry 100 years from now.



The road to Madison Junction (and everywhere else) was lined with Lodgepole Pine, (Pinus contorta). At first we hardly noticed but then it became obvious that this is the prominent tree of the park not only for 2013 but for years to come..


Lodgepole Pine can be found in most of western Canada and some of the western parts of US. It is that scraggly-looking cousin to the majestic Ponderosa Pine, Pinus ponderosa
The one being susceptible to Blue Fungus and Pine Beetle as all of us in BC know.

Lodgepole can grow up to about 20 meters high. It forms dense stands with branchless trunks and dense tops - this being an energy-saving design of the trees. What`s the point of building branches and needles in dark spaces where the sun does not shine? 
Only a solitary tree will have its branches placed all along the trunk
One thing about Lodgepole is, that it is vulnerable to fire,  that perhaps for a good reason too.
Vulnerable because its bark is thin and does not protect the tree. 
It is quite resinous and in a forest fire it will happily ignite.
Poor tree we say. 
The one who dies, yes, but during its lifetime it produced numerous cones. To protects the seeds within, the cones are tightly sealed with resin. And the only way to open them is to expose the resin to high temperatures.
Pop! The seeds come out!


The only creatures able to open these cones might be the bears - I am not sure about this one so better check it out.

After the forest fire the Lodgepole Pine seedlings start sprouting like crazy - and soon, (soon meaning several years), the area teems with green lodgepole seedlings.
Since the ground is so shaded by them nothing else can thrive there. And that is the advantage for the pine.


The seedlings also compete among themselves - survival of the fittest as they told us in school - and those who die create a litter of dry fuel for the fires to come. Fire means more seeds liberated from the cones
.
Survival of the individual means nothing in Nature - it is the survival of the species that matters..


Many of us remember the monstrous forest fire of 1988 that devastated Yellowstone N.P..
Today, 25 years later, the stands upon stands of the young pine bear witness to fire-popping cones. 

The following is a great presentation about the fire of 1988

Take a minute to take a look at The Story Behind .... It is great to see the events in retrospect.


By the way: 
The common name of this pine refers to its use. 
Native people used the pine poles to build their dwellings, be it tipis (or teepees or teepis) or lodges. 
So, I am sure, did the trappers and others who came later.

Thus Lodgepole Pine. Now we know!


There! 
And I started to write this entry with a bison story in my mind .... !