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Tuesday, 7 April 2015

Iceland: LONDRANGAR CLIFFS





10 km north of Arnarstapi, 
its Cafe and its basalt cliffs,  is another natural attraction - the cliffs of Lóndrangar. 





At one point in time they were a part of a plug in an ancient volcano, but as the millennia passed the elements eroded the softer rocks. Only two towers of hard basalt, 75 and 61 m tall, have been left standing. They are visible from quite a distance away.



Lush, green grasses belong to elves. Reportedly, the farmers leave the fields untouched.



And the cliffs belong to birds many of which nest on the cliffs. The one below is probably a kittiwake - belonging to the gull family





Cameras ready, all one can do here is hope for nice weather.


The area is guarded by a handsome lighthouse.

Nearby, some sheep make their living in the vast lava fields.


















The way out and to the highway is dotted by many kinds of tough plants, many of them in full bloom.



Soft tops of Arctic cotton grass, Eriophorum scheuchzeri, cover vast areas of the landscape.
And lively streams of muddy water are rushing towards the ocean, carrying away the precious soil.



We are back on the road - bearing witness to never ceasing wind and its enormous strength. 




On the way to our end-of-the-day destination we are passing and extremely tall tower. It is the Hellisandur radio tower that, at its 412 meters, has the distinction of being the tallest man-made structure in Western Europe.

I know that it is silly, but I feel a bit better when we are past the 500m mark. Just in case! 











Survived! And we are off to the fishing town of Ólafsvík
.




Monday, 30 March 2015

Iceland: SNÆFELLNES PENINSULA - ARNARSTAPI



We are taking a detour from the ring road, heading to another on Iceland's peninsulas. Snaefellsness





The Google Translate helps us to understand the name:

snæ = snow, 
fells = mountain
jökull = glacier

And below is the mountain (or rather a part of it) that gave the entire peninsula its name.

It is a volcano - some 1450m in height - crowned by a glacier.





It is also a site of the famous "Journey To The Centre Of  The Earth" written by the French Sci-Fi writer Jules Verne in 1864. 

What is interesting is that Verne's characters enter the Earth here at Snaefells but exit at Stromboli - another volcano located of the coast of Sicily (Italy).

One hot journey indeed.



Photo Stan Sykora

Conveniently located Cafe Arnarstapi is more than a welcome sight on a day like this. It was built in 1985 in an old style with turf roofs and stone edgings.


A Tatra truck built by the Czech company Tatra - the 3rd oldest car maker in the world and a pride of the Czech nationals the world over! It is so nice for us - the long time expats - to see it here, working for a travel company of the 2014 rather than being used for a military mission of the old Soviet Union of the past century. We are not sure if the bunch of young people travelling with it would understand our feelings. After all the Berlin Wall collapsed 25 years ago.





The entire world is piling into the shelter as the heavy clouds obscure our surroundings. 

The wind is howling and the cold rain is punishing us just for being here




















What can be better than a cup of hearty soup (lamb stock and veggies - and oh, so good) and a cup of strong coffee?
















A bit of colour on a dreary day makes everything look better.

A miniature statue at the Cafe waves us good-bye as we leave for the nearby cliffs.









In between stands a rather large structure dedicated to the local deity Bardur, the giant. It is also a memorial to a 10-year old, who perished on the mountain in 1928.








Atlantic ocean, not too far away, is being whipped into a foam and its angry roar can be heard in the distance.

Here is the place where a large volcano emerged from the ocean, leaving the coastline scarred with many kilometers of basalt columns and other formations.

It is a wild, eerily beautiful place. 


















Thursday, 19 March 2015

Iceland: Driving the WEST COAST


 Of Swans, Geese, Horses, Sheep and Eldborg.
(Eld....what?)

Leaving Akranes behind we are making our way up along the west coast to Snaefellness peninsula.
A family of Whooper Swans, Cygnus cygnus,, is peacefully foraging by the edges of a long, seemingly shallow fjord.
It is raining but we stop to observe and photograph anyway.

The swan parents immediately turn back and paddle away.

But the youngster seems to have decided otherwise. Ignoring both, the parents and their warning signals, it made a hundred-and-eighty turn and graciously swims towards us rapidly increasing the distance between its parents and self.


It made its mind! No signals or body language shall lure it back!



What can the parents do about such disobedience?

Turning back to catch up with the young they somehow manage to make it clear: 
Enough is enough!

The strategy works and the cygnet, having decided that we are not worth the trouble, turns its back on us and glides away.

Oh, those children!



Trumpeter Swan, Cygnus buccinator
Whooper Swans are large birds - they are the Old World counterparts to the large Trumpeter Swan,  Cygnus buccinatorof North America
The Trumpeter Swan can be identified by the red on its beak.

The photo had been taken in Montana, USA.


Whooper Swan, Cygnus cygnus









And the one with a really large patch of yellow on the beak is the whooper swan. 
(There are other species of swans with yellow on the beak but this one sports the largest amount of yellow of them all.)









Because of their size and morphology, the whooper swans need very large spaces for taking off to the air. they "run" on water for quite a distance before they can lift their heavy bodies up and fly away.
Therefore they need vast bodies of water that offer not only the submerged vegetation but also the space for take-offs.
Iceland's coastal lines offer just that - vast fjords and swamps. 

That's why we are starting to see them everywhere. What a treat. 


After the grey lava fields of Reykjanes, these green pastoral scenes of the west coast are creating an illusion of having traveled hundreds of kilometers to some other, far-away country. 




In fact we are only about 70 km north from Reykjanes.



A flock of noisy geese has landed in a field half a kilometer away. More wildlife!!!! 
Not sure if I am ever going to able to identify them (so far they are) I am shooting a couple of frames anyway. 


Well, long live the marvels of  the digital photography - they are the Greylag geese, Anser anser, the European species and the great-Grand-Daddys of all domesticated geese.

A waterfall, a waterfall!


Little do we know at this point of our trip that this is only one of a million or so waterfalls that we are going to see! 
With all the rain coming from the ocean, water seems to be abundant in this place.




Beautiful Icelandic horses make up for the lack of other large wildlife

All are special - a very old breed hardly changed over the course of the last millenium.
Their legs are a bit shorter than those of "normal" horses (who wants to be tall in all this wind?). Their genes are actually carefully guarded by the breeders. Also, they are protected from the import of diseases by strict rules and regulations regarding the travel in or out of the country.







It is windy - VERY windy! And it rains 80% of the time (it is september).
But some brave hearts, admirably, travel by bicycle anyhow. All we can do at our advanced ages is to admire their stamina - and their physical condition.


This is a picturesque part of the country (But what in Iceland isn't?).


Ahh, those icelandic sheep! They are cute in their rich, soft coats. The strands of their wool are fluffed up by the never ceasing wind. They are not too keen on close contact with people (at least that was our case) and as soon as we stop to photograph them they move to a safer distance.




Past the city of Borgarnes, is a volcanic rift that hosts a neat crater with a neat name. 
It is Eldborg - translated as Fire Castle. It is a perfectly rounded crater that had been formed some 5 to 8 thousand years ago.
We are stopping to explore the area for a while - there is no need to repeat that the wind is knocking us over, so powerful it is. But the area is astonishingly beautiful (unlike the much younger Reykjanes, this one is already dressed in vegetation). 


There is no need to repeat what a photo of a sign tells the visitors:






Unfortunately we do not have an extra hour in the itinerary for the day therefore we must continue without the hike. 


Here one can rent horses and enjoy the country on the horseback. Those who, like I, admire any horse but view it with some primeval fear and respect can simply walk to the crater by foot. 

I simply admire the colours of the lonesome farm.


A couple more photos and we are off to the main destination of the day - the Snaefellness Peninsula.