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Tuesday 14 July 2015

Iceland: GODAFOSS

WATERFALL OF THE GODS.

Goðafoss is a spectacular set of waterfalls in central north Iceland. It is not the largest Icelandic waterfall but it is very pretty and historically significant.

Our aim that day was Husavik - but the falls were just about half way in between ... a little detour from the ring road # 1.



 

We were surprised to see the fields of ripening wheat and stands of planted trees - someone trying to forest the barren landscape of Iceland.

Surprised? We shoud not have been!

 

 

 

With the tectonic plates drifting away from each other thus ripping Iceland into two this area is, once again, rich in geothermal energy.

That's why we see many greenhouses and fertile fields.


To make it all more interesting a river Skjálfandafljót (you pronounce it if you can) has made its way all the way from the ice caps of the mighty Vatnajökull, the largest glacier in Iceland. 
Oh yes, this river is on its South to North course conquering the interior highlands before reaching the Greenland Sea. 


Skjálfandafljót is known for its waterfalls one of which is Goðafoss -  Waterfall of the Gods.


About 30 meters wide and 12 meters high they are far from the largest but their significance is in their role in the history of Iceland.

The year 1,000 found Iceland without a unifying religion - there were tribes and families worshiping different deities from different corners of the Viking world. There was also Christianity making its way here from the South.
We all know too well about the struggles amongst religions and beliefs and the wars in name of religions.

To avoid such fight the emerging nation decided to choose one official religion that would represent it and its values. Easy to say - but which one?

Here we can reconnect with one of the previous entries in this blog - that of the Þingvellir and the first parliament. There, at the annual convention, Alþingi, attended by ll the Icelanders, the governing body of wise men chose ONE person - the country's law speaker to make the hard decision.
"What are we going to be?"
He, himself a pagan, pondered for a very long time. At the end he chose Christianity - for what reasons, political or otherwise, we do not know.

After the convention at Þingvellir the law-speaker made his way back north to his home-farm. As he passed the falls on Skjálfandafljót River, he unwrapped the statues of his pagan gods and tossed them into the falls.

Godafoss were born.













The sun is hugging the horizon and it is time to continue to Husavik. One last look, a good-bye to the river with an unpronounceable name and we are heading North - all the way to the coast.






Iceland: The North - AKUREYRI




We are headed for Akureyri - the town of nearly 18,000.
We should really call it a city instead of  "town" because it is hailed as Iceland's second most important settlement with the largest shipyard in the country.

Akureyri is located just a proverbial stone throw away from the Arctic Circle, yet, thanks to warmer ocean currents, Akureyri reportedly enjoys bearable weather the year round.


It is settled by the west end of Eyjafjörður, the longest fjord in Iceland and the scenery is beautiful.


Snow-capped mountain ridges reflecting in the cold water and hemmed by the green pastures of early September amount for the unforgettable drive.



And here we are:

 

The first settlers arrived at the end of the 9th century (890) and it took a long while to establish a trading post in this location. The year was 1602. With trading comes permanent population and by the beginning of the 20th century there were 1,400 permanent residents in Akureyri. 
Things don't happen hastily by the Arctic circle.


Give another century  and Akureyri of 2015 is thriving.
In addition to a University (since 1987), several museums and the botanical gardens there is an interesting downtown with a huge bookstore and many welcoming cafes.
There is also an airport (mostly domestic or to nearby islands including Greenland ).






There are many ways how to get around - one can:
 drive up the hill (like we did)  

walk (like we also did) or  

cycle up the hill (like they do - it hurts just looking at them);  

skateboard down the hill (it hurts too imagining what it would be like for us). 



In any case, this town is worthwhile exploring either way - especially on a nice September day.



We are finding Akureyri to be very artistic; love this pedestrian crossing and the colourful footmarks leading to it.









We are also admiring the wall art - instead of atrocious messages there are true works of art well  worth the look.







             





Downtown of Akureyri is colourful, clean ad visitor-friendly.

And there are MANY places to visit and explore.





All one has to do is read - and understand!

Isn't this the best part of travel adventures?
It seems that the young lady in the picture came well prepared.














A really elegant place to rest the weary legs and calm the growling stomachs is in the centre of the old town ...very friendly and relaxing. Being a tourist in Akureyri is not bad at all .....



No need for selfies in a town like this!






Yup - we are really, really close - welcome to the Arctic.
There is an interesting medical phenomenon called
Akureyri disease and we wonder if it has anything to do with the darkness of the winter ... though they blame it on poliomyelitis.






Flowers abound in this sub polar city - and though we did not find the church open and did not have time to visit the botanical gardens we had a time to remember for the rest of our days.